This is a static export of a blog I put on ice many years ago, that still has personally relevant content. No promises can be made around linkrot, styles, or working functionality.
It’s time to show two more pieces for my halloween costume: a third (a final) skirt and a chemise.
The skirt is made in the same manner as the petticoat, although I used self-fabric ties for the front because I ran out of twill tape. This time the fabric was wide enough to use the selvedges along the side seam, and the skirt is supposed to be short, so two yards did the work. The plaid fabric wasn’t quite right, so I topstitched lace in a few places before constructing the skirt. It’s still not very close to the original fabric, but it’ll do for a costume.
The chemise was made using Simplicity 5582. Because there is an incredible amount of ease built into the pattern I didn’t bother with any sort of bust adjustment or other fitting since the ease would leave plenty of room. I did add an additional 7.5″ to the length, though, to change it from a blouse into a knee-length chemise. It’s very much costume construction with pinked seam allowances and elastic at the arms and necklines, but done is better than unfinished couture.
One costume-specific detail is the attached necklace (made from a 30″ chain from the jewelry section at the big-box craft store). Although source photos show it is definitely attached, none are clear as to how. I decided to use hooks (of hook and eye fame) sewn to the neckline elastic casing to catch the links of the chain. Then, it’s easily removable if I want to repurpose the chemise, but will stay in place while I’m wearing the costume. The tension from the short length of the chain keeps it from falling below the neckline.
Stay tuned for later this week when I can reveal the final pieces.
I’m doing a group costume for Halloween with two of my coworkers. The who I’m portraying is a secret until then, but the how involves three different skirts for maximum authenticity. This is layer one.
The character is historical, but we’re not going for historical accuracy (nor did the original costume designer). This petticoat is almost-historical, albeit for about 100 years later than the characterās base time period.
It’s made from 3 yards of 44″-wide cotton, plus stash scraps and twill tape for the waistband. The hem is approximately 106″, so nicely full and swishy.
I used my rolled-hem foot to finish off the side slits, then sewed the rest of the side seam with a french seam. Those techniques are not historically accurate at all (well, maybe the narrow hem, a little).
A narrow hem makes a nice finish on the side openings
At 5’3″ with a short inseam, the 44″ width was the perfect height for me, so I used the selvage as a hem, which made the work very quick. A more historically accurate skirt would have put the selvages along the side seam, but the fabric width was too narrow for the fullness I wanted, and I didn’t want to sew any additional seams.
Selvage hem and french seams made construction quick with little chance of raveling.
My pleats were rather haphazard, but they work just fine, and the double waistband makes fitting adjustments a breeze.
I also finished the sewing part of layer two, although it needs to be thoroughly distressed before it’s technically complete. This layer is far more costume construction than historical, using a half yard of the fashion fabric, with tulle for the rest, which will be hidden by the overskirt. The same two-part waistband structure is there, but I sewed a channel for the ties and gathered the center by way of stringing the bias tape through, then tacking the ends so it doesn’t spread out again. It’d be a bit unwieldy for cotton, but works well for the light-weight net. The hem (or lack thereof) will be even more uneven by the time it’s fully distressed.
I’ll try to post more progress posts before Halloween, if I can do so without plot spoilers. Otherwise, you’ll just have to wait until November!
Despite the lack of updates, I havenāt entirely forgotten about that giant Steampunk outfit plan that Iām supposed to be working on. I finally took a stab at putting the corset together this weekend, in a form slightly modified from my original plans, but one that should still work.
In May, after having C&K try on the mockup, I knew I needed to modify it to an underbust.I drew out the new top while they were wearing it, and then ripped apart the mockup and modified my pattern pieces according to the drawn lines. The other major modification is that the budget got the best of me and I decided to forgo using a traditional separating busk in lieu of hooks and eyes. I found these great filigree ones on sale, so there will be four of them, and likely a few more hidden ones. This is not going to be used for tight lacing or everyday wear, so I think it should hold up.
I have the fashion fabric and drill interlining all pieced together for both sides (one shown here, with some bones in place). Iām now in the process of sewing in the boning casings. After that will just be the lining and grommets, and deciding on what to lace it with.
Iād completely forgotten that I had this homespun in my stash. When I uncovered it, the whole corset look clicked in my headāI like it much better than the other options Iād laid out (and C&K said that they had no preference at all).
Itās a bit annoying to match the lines, and itās by no means perfect, but there arenāt any absolute glaring mismatches. Luckily I have plenty of fabric so that I neednāt be hampered by a restrictive cutting layout.
I hope to finish it this week so that I can get started on the other torso-covering pieces. Itās September already!
Also, hereās a look at the dog modification I made from Simplicity 2613 now that itās been delivered:
The concept needs work, but I like it (and so did the recipient!).
Itās time to get back to work on the Steampunk costume, donāt you think? The first step is finishing up the corset, since it is the base of all the other top-layer items. Iāve picked apart the drill mockup so that I can use those pieces for interlining/strength, and now Iām ready to cut into the fashion fabric and actually construct the final corset.
The problem is, I canāt decide what to make it out of. Iām sticking to fabrics I already own (and own in enough quantity). The fittings are gold/brass, so it all needs to match that, too.
I mentioned early on that I wanted to try drafting a bifurcated skirt out of a period tailoring manual. Iām still doing that, sort of. Except, Iām also kind of cheating, because I realized that if I enlarged this one:
ā¦so that the front measurement (line C-G) was the right length for my models, it worked out that the waist was also right (in other words, the measurements I needed to draft to are pretty much correctly proportioned to the bookās draft).
Since I first posted about making the Steampunk costume, my plan has changed a small bit, but also really coalesced into something I think will be great when it is finished. What is helping me stay focused and not go too far out there (or grow this into something too large) is to focus on a couple themes. If an idea doesnāt suit the themes, then itās taken off the table.
I think head-in-the-clouds Rae has won out (was there ever a question, really?). Iām making a Steampunk costume over the course of the next nine months. I even ordered some fabric, so now I have to make it.
My muse hasnāt stopped singing about the costume in the past week. It came up with a whole backstory and character for this costume, and who am I to deny it? Now that itās in my head, I canāt get past the character (who is about 18 years old) so this wonāt be a costume for me. Luckily, I have two younger sisters with similar body types (to each other, not me. Brats got all the tall genes)āhereafter referred to as C&Kāto exploit, and theyāve agreed to let me dress them up at Christmas for a photo shoot.
So, paired with their measurements, a dress form I donāt yet own, and only a single chance to fit a mockup or two in person in less than a month (unless they come visit me, which is doubtful, since theyāre on college-student budgets and Iām on a recently-bought-a-house-and-am-making-a-big-costume budget), I will be creating a costume that fits them (in theory). Luckily, they have more pattern-ready bodies, so fitting should be simpler than if I were to make it for myself, I think.
I canāt really sketch, but hereās a bit of my idea on paperā¦
I spent my National Sewing Day taking advantage of the lovely weather to do some much-needed leaf raking, then sat on the porch and made progress on my Tula quiltās binding. I still havenāt photographed my underpinnings and gown (show is tomorrow), but hereās a few of my shoes.
After deciding against the American Duchess shoes, and Moof chewing my half-finished pink attempt, I still found myself in need of shoes for the show. Target no longer had the pink ones, so I couldnāt continue in that vein. I finally decided to go back to my original plan of gussying up a pair of black flats I purchased a few years ago and have practically worn out (I stopped wearing them a while ago, but never got around to throwing them out). Some of the wear will be hidden by the decoration anyway, so itās a good compromise.
I had hoped to be further along with my dress by now (that is, started), so that this giveaway could tie into notes about making the dress. However, I want to make sure that you have time to make your own dress for the show or whatever events you wish it for. So, without further ado, this is a giveaway! Of Simplicityās licensed Sense and Sensibility Regency Gownāperfect for 1812 Bicentennial celebrations!
The background of the photo is the fabric I might be using for my own dressā¦ a green wool.
Specifically, this is the size HH (6-8-10-12) pattern, so you need measurements smaller than 34-26-36 according to the package, although considering the modern ease added, you may be able to get away with using the size 12 even if you are closer to 36-28-38 (what they consider size 14), and if youāre really adventurous, you can try to scale the pattern up.
I thought things would calm down after I finished all the Christmas presents I made, but I was mistaken. Between house renovations/organizing, freelance work, 9ā5 work, and whatnot, I havenāt made any progress on the 1812 fashion pieces. What I have done is buy an extremely important part of the outfit: a shawl. From Target.
